In the event that you're finally prepared to tackle the 4th gen 4runner washer reservoir relocation , you've probably recognized that the manufacturer tank is the total clearance killer. It sits right there within the traveler side wheel properly, hanging down like a sore thumb once you exchange out that big plastic stock fender for something high-clearance. If you've walked up to 33-inch or 35-inch tires, you've likely already noticed that lovely "r-r-r-rubbing" sound against the plastic reservoir every time you convert the wheel or hit a lump. It's annoying, it looks messy, and honestly, it's just asking to obtain punctured by the rock or a branch when you're away on the trek.
Moving that reservoir isn't almost making things appear "pro, " though that's a great bonus. It's about functionality. When you cut your fenders or use a steel plate bumper, that will big white container is the only thing left protruding. It ruins the particular approach angle plus, let's be genuine, it just appears to be you forgot to finish the job. Fortunately, relocating it isn't as scary as it sounds, also if you aren't a master auto technician.
Why the Stock Tank Offers to Go
The 4th Gen 4Runner (2003-2009) is a legendary platform, but Toyota's designers clearly weren't thinking of 6-inch lifts plus 35s when they will designed the washer fluid system. The particular stock tank will be massive. It holds a ton of fluid, which usually is great for lengthy road trips via salt and slush, but its shape is awkward. It's wide, flat, plus tucked into the lowest possible point behind the fender.
As shortly as you proceed with a "high-clearance" cut on your own stock bumper—what many of us contact the "Viper Cut"—you expose the entire aspect of that reservoir. It's white, it's ugly, and this stands apart against the dark shadows associated with your wheel well. If you proceed up to an automotive aftermarket steel bumper from companies like Coastal Offroad, CBI, or True North, the particular reservoir actually will get in the method of the bumper brackets sometimes, or at the really least, it weighs down several inches below the newest steel.
Past the looks, the particular risk of damage is real. I've seen guys capture that tank upon a rock, break the plastic, and suddenly they're trailing blue fluid throughout the trail. No washer fluid means a dirty windshield remains dirty, and on a dusty trail, that's actually a safety hazard.
Finding the New Home for the Fluid
When you choose to do the 4th gen 4runner washer reservoir relocation , the first question is definitely: where does it go? A person don't possess a lot of room within a modern motor bay, especially in the event that you have the 4. 7L V8 or even if you've currently added an additional electric battery or an surroundings compressor.
Most people end up moving the reservoir to the rear traveler side of the motor bay, close to the firewall. There's a nice little bit of pocket of room there that's generally empty, or at least mainly empty. Many people use an universal package, which is fundamentally a small plastic bag or even a slim cylindrical tank with the generic pump. These are cheap and so they work, but they feel a little bit flimsy.
The more popular "OEM-plus" way to do it is by using a washer tank from a 1st Gen Tacoma or the 3rd Gen 4Runner. Those tanks are much more compact plus have a shape that fits better against the internal fender. There are usually also several businesses now making CNC-cut aluminum brackets particularly for this change, which makes the whole thing look like this came that way from the factory.
The various tools and Parts You'll Need
Before you start ripping things out, make sure you have everything on hand. There's nothing worse than having your truck apart plus realizing you're three feet short on vacuum tubing.
- A new reservoir: Whether or not it's an universal kit or a good older Toyota tank.
- Mounting hardware: Self-tapping screws or a specific relocation bracket.
- Extended tubing: You'll need roughly 6 in order to 10 feet of 1/4-inch vacuum or heater hose to reach the new place.
- Cabling extensions: The stock harness won't reach the particular firewall, so you'll need some 16 gauge wire and heat-shrink connectors.
- Basic hand equipment: The 10mm socket (it's a Toyota, after all), pliers, plus a wire stripper.
The Step by step Process
Initial things first, you've got to have the old one out there. It's usually held in by three 10mm bolts. You can access them simply by pulling back the plastic inner fender liner. Professional tip: if you may, try to empty the fluid in to a clean bucket first so you may reuse it. Or, just allow it to splash—but your driveway may look like the Smurf exploded.
After the bolts are out, you'll want to unplug the particular two pumps. The first is for the front side windshield, and the other is for the rear. This is where people sometimes get confused. The particular 4th Gen has two separate pushes clipped in to the side of the tank. You're going to wish to pop these pumps out of the old container (they just pull out, usually held by a rubber grommet) since you'll likely become reusing them with your new set up.
Next, find your mounting spot in the motor bay. If you're using the rear traveler corner, make sure you aren't blocking access to the particular spark plugs or even whatever you might need to reach later. Bolt your brand-new tank in securely. If it's the plastic tank, don't over-tighten it or even you might split the mounting tabs.
Now arrives the "fun" component: plumbing and wiring. You have to run those new hoses from the particular pumps to the manufacturing plant T-fittings close to the cowl. Keep the hoses away from the particular exhaust manifold—melted tubes are no fun. For the wiring, I always recommend soldering your plug-ins and using heat-shrink tubing. Crimp connectors may vibrate loose or even corrode over time, and you don't want to end up being troubleshooting a deceased pump in the middle of a rainstorm.
Working with the Double Pump Situation
One quirk in regards to the 4th gen 4runner washer reservoir relocation is that will the rear window sprayer needs the own pump. If you buy a cheap common kit, it generally only comes along with one pump. You have a several choices here. You can "T" the lines together therefore one pump does both (which is usually okay, but you'll be spraying your own back window every time you clean the front), or a person can find a reservoir that accepts two pumps.
If you're utilizing a third Gen 4Runner tank, you can generally modify it to hold both factory pumps. It keeps the electrical system delighted and ensures that your rear wiper actually has fluid at any given time. If you're a V8 owner, look out for the supplementary air injection pump—it takes up a bit of space best where you need to put the brand-new tank, to have to get innovative with the bracket.
Testing Your Work
Don't put the fender liner back on until you've tested the system. Fill the brand-new tank with water (just in case there's a drip, it's simpler to clear up) and strike the switch. When you hear the particular pump buzzing but nothing comes out, a person might have the particular lines swapped or perhaps a kink in the hose.
Look for leaks around the grommets. Given that you're likely reusing the old pumps in a brand-new tank, the close off may not be perfect. The little bit of silicone sealant can help if items aren't perfectly airtight. Once you get a strong stream hitting the glass, you're fantastic.
Final Thoughts for the Relocation
Is a 4th gen 4runner washer reservoir relocation the particular most exciting imod you can perform? Probably not. It's not really a locker, plus it won't provide you with more horsepower. But it's one of those "quality of life" mods that makes your rig feel more finished. It cleans up the lines of the particular truck, protects your own components, and stops that annoying tire rub once and for all.
Plus, there's a certain satisfaction within opening the hood and seeing a clean, tucked-away motor bay instead of a giant plastic milk jug hanging off the body. It's a relatively inexpensive weekend project that makes a substantial difference if you're seriously interested in off-roading your own 4th Gen. Simply take your time and energy along with the wiring, protected your hoses, and revel in the extra measurement the next time you're dropping in to a technical clean or climbing the steep ledge. Your own tires (and your windshield) will give thanks to you.